UDOO case?

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by josolanes, Oct 19, 2013.

  1. josolanes

    josolanes New Member

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    Hi,

    Has anyone considered building a UDOO case or found something that may work well? I'm not sure about others, but I know I'd be interested!

    I'm thinking a case that is sealed but allows access to the PC connectors and micro-usb ports and is open enough on top to allow access to the Due and has an opening available to allow a Sata connection - or is tall enough to allow a laptop SATA drive to fit within it. This would help protect the UDOO while allowing it to be usable as well - just a thought!

    I'm open to ideas for either building one or purchasing one.

    Otherwise I'm fine leaving it sitting on the anti-static bag on my desk, but thought it'd be nice to protect it and make it look more "presentable" :)

    -Josh
     
  2. mkopack

    mkopack Member

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    There's another thread in this room covering a 3D printed case design that is up at:

    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:152708

    But yeah, like you I'd like something that could hold a 2.5" SATA drive as well. I'd prefer to put the SATA on the bottom, but trying to figure out how to run the cables around to the bottom for it.

    Wish I had a clue how to do things in CAD... But take a look at that link. It's a good starting point IMO.
     
  3. josolanes

    josolanes New Member

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    Wow that is really cool! That's a great start. I also have no CAD experience, though. Even what is shown in that link I think is a very good start. I'm thinking something along the lines of lifting the sides a bit higher (1/2" or more) and adding a "shelf" of sorts to hold a 2.5" SATA underneath the UDOO could work possibly too, and doesn't sound extremely difficult - if only with some CAD knowledge. As you said, routing the cables could be a bit tedious, though

    Thank you very much mkopack for the link. I've never looked into 3D printing before, is there somewhere online that can print objects? I've read that select UPS Stores will begin offering it but can't find any information beyond that
     
  4. mkopack

    mkopack Member

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    You should be able to send the files to somebody like Shapeways and pay to have them print it for you. No idea on price though.
     
  5. tibmeister

    tibmeister New Member

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    Radio Shack has a project enclosure that is 6"x4"x2" and fits great. Radio Shack even has the standoffs that you can superglue into the enclosure to mount it nicely. I will be making a template, possibly from the link provided above, to lay over and use as a cutting guide for a dremel.
    With this enclosure, it's big enough to fit a slim HDD, and a small power break-out board for both the SATA HDD and an external fan mounted in the case to keep the whole thing cool.
    Since I can't post pictures in the forum here, I will revive my blog on my website and get some stuff posted up there.
     
  6. josolanes

    josolanes New Member

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    Thanks for the tip @tibmeister. I'll check out the enclosure you mentioned - using the other link as a template for cutting the enclosure with a dremel is a great idea!

    I'd definitely be interested in updates on this if you wouldn't mind, I'll very likely be doing the same :)
     
  7. mkopack

    mkopack Member

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    Not sure if this will read in the files I referenced earlier for that 3D printed case, or the UDoo design files, but check this out:

    http://www.designspark.com/eng/page/mechanical

    Free 3D CAD package for Windows and supposedly works with 3D printers (IE it'll produce the right kind of files for 3D printers to use.)
     
  8. mkopack

    mkopack Member

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  9. josolanes

    josolanes New Member

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    Thanks @mkopack I'll check that out :)
     
  10. Patola

    Patola New Member

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    About that case on thingiverse: I am currently using it slightly modified on my UDOO. First off, I had to increase it by 2% size - on its current dimensions, it is so tight that the small excesses of the switches and connectors won't let you insert the board in the case. The second change I had to do is to thicken the divisions between the connector holes on the side with the most holes, because they are too thin and tall and when you are 3D-printing them they are very likely to collapse.

    I can't publish my modified design however because the license prohibits derivatives. I have complained that to the author, who doesn't look too happy about it.
     
  11. josolanes

    josolanes New Member

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    ^ Great information, thanks @Patola!
     
  12. mkopack

    mkopack Member

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    Yeah thanks! That at least lets us know whether it'll work or not. I consider it a "good first try" that was done without having an actual unit to test it with. but I agree, it would be nice if the author of those files would allow people to derive off it since it's not really usable as is...

    Assuming I'm not dealing with tons of house moving stuff the week of Thanksgiving, I plan to spend the whole week learning the CAD package and trying to design something up. I don't have a 3D printer, but I do have access to a laser cutter/engraver at work, so I might try to do something like this (which is for the Pandaboard):

    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18645
     
  13. gryphius_g

    gryphius_g New Member

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  14. fuzzyfuzzyfungus

    fuzzyfuzzyfungus New Member

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    My CAD is pretty rudimentary; but I've had a go at an alternative to 3D printing, which should be more amenable to assembly with basic hand tools (if you don't mind getting your hands dirty and can cut a reasonably straight line) or relatively simple machine shop operations:

    The basic idea is a simple 'sandwich' design. On the bottom is a baseplate, 120mm by 96.5mm (so, if centered, the UDOO PCB has 5mm of material on each side for a modicum of protection, without making the ports hard to reach. The baseplate has holes matching the locations of those on the UDOO PCB. If you want to use standard PC motherboard standoffs, these should be 6-32 tapped, if you find it easier to source the standoffs used in D-sub connectors (eg. VGA, serial, DVI) you'll want 4-40. (The attached baseplate file has 2.2mm holes, which should suit 4-40 screws, 6-32s would be better off with more like 2.7, with the caveat, in both cases, that all metal screws are somewhat self-tapping if you use acrylic or polycarbonate and all steel screws are slightly self tapping if you use aluminum and a little violence...)

    Above the baseplate and the standoffs goes the UDOO itself.

    The top plate is similar to the baseplate; but cut to try to expose the headers without totally sacrificing protection. The uploaded rough-cut has no tolerances for the 2.54mm headers(so those cut-outs will have to be a bit larger, depending on the tolerances of the process); but the cutout area on the bottom right, while slightly arbitrary, should expose all the headers located there.

    The whole assembly is then secured by screws driven down through the top plate and into the headers on the bottom plate, with nylon spacers of suitable length(still to be measured) keeping the top plate an appropriate distance from the UDOO(whether you want the 2.54mm headers slightly above the top plate, perfectly flush, or slightly sunken can be ajusted to taste by trimming the spacers).
     
  15. fmc159

    fmc159 Member

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    I also have designed a case for the QUAD. I only have access to a laser cutter so have designed a simple laser cut perspex design, consisting of 6 plates forming the walls and top and bottom in 3mm perspex. It all clips together without any glue or screws. There are cutouts to access access all ports and an easily removable top for access to the GPIO pins. The UDOO board itself will be held up by metal PCB standoffs. Unsure of pricing as of yet if anyone wants to buy, but feel free to register your interest, or add your thoughts on the design! Photos will follow once I get my board!
     
  16. Lifeboat_Jim

    Lifeboat_Jim New Member

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    Thanks to all, it's great to have options, different sizes & materials etc.
     
  17. Roberto

    Roberto New Member

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    @gryphius_g

    I started developing a case in openscad too, but you seem to be way ahead. I really wanted to design because without mouse ears it will be a very difficult print. You solved my problem :D

    Think I will try to print it today.

    Thank you!
     
  18. nayma

    nayma Member

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    Hi I've printed the case :D

    As you can see I've been able to connect the imx with the sam, running arduino IDE nicelly.
     

    Attached Files:

  19. mkopack

    mkopack Member

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    Is the the one I posted the link for that somebody said was 2% too small? Either way, that looks pretty good!
     
  20. gryphius_g

    gryphius_g New Member

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    @Roberto: Please let me know if your case came out ok. I'm currently having troubles printing (warping issues, even with the mouse ears). The bottom part should be ok but I haven't been able to test the top yet, so I don't know if it fits and if all the positions are correct.
     

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